One of the most fascinating but less known areas of Molise is the Fortore Valley, in the province of Campobasso, where a series of small villages are scattered across the hills overseeing the valleys guardedly. Here, when the bora blows, the cutting wind that once powered the windmills, now drives the wind turbines spread out across the crests of the hills overlooking the villages.

This is a land with an ancient history. It is here that, until the 19th century, the drovers used to move their herds from Abruzzo to the plains of Apulia following the seasonal cycles. The transhumance route that, today, you can do on foot or by bicycle following the drovers’ trails, green highways formed from the passage and trampling of the herds. One of the better preserved ones is the Cammino dei Sanniti, a modern pilgrimage route of 300 kilometres and divided into 16 stages from Abruzzo to Puglia Garganica, almost entirely following the original Regio Tratturo Castel Di Sangro-Lucera.

A slow journey, to discover diverse countryside and villages that have kept their traditions alive. One of these carries the name of Pietracatella, a small hamlet leaning against a morgia, the impressive masses of limestone and sandstone that date back millions of years when the sea covered the Apennines. The village, also known for hosting a literary contest dedicated to Fabrizio de André, deserves a visit even if only for the San Giacomo Church, which houses the oldest wooden crucifix in Molise dating from the 13th-14th century. Leaving Pietracatella, a visit to the local dairy “Come una volta” is worthwhile, where you can try km0 super-fresh cheese.

Another historical village is Macchia Valfortore, a place that has ended up in the history books following the “Congiura di Macchia”, the attempted conspiracy by some of the Neapolitan nobility in 1701 to support the Hapsburgs against the Spanish Viceroys, later to be narrated by the philosopher, Giambattista Vico, in the “De coniuratione partenopea”. Perched on a hill surrounded by olive groves and fruit orchards, the village, which marks the geographical border between Apulia and Molise – the Apulian accent can be heard in the dialect, softer and more musical, and its flavours in some of its dishes – overlooks the banks of Lake Occhito. It is one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe, a naturalistic wonder constructed at the end of the fifties for irrigation purposes with funds from the Marshall Plan.

Awaiting the go-ahead for an eco-sustainable navigation, today you can walk or cycle around the lake. However, if you have even just a minimum knowledge of horse-riding, we suggest participating in one of the trips organised by Occhito Riding Holidays, an association set up by two local companies. Accompanied by experienced guides you sleep under the stars, learning about the most varied species of mammals and birds and, of course, trying the local traditional products. Speaking of food. In Macchia, the locals boast of producing the best cavatelli (type of pasta) in the area, the true pride of Molise. “Lighter, and thinner, without using potatoes. So, another thing altogether”, ensures the mayor. It is cooked with fresh tomatoes or turnip greens. Inter-regional contamination always begins at the table.

However, the realm of pasta can be found at Sant’Elia a Pianisi, another small hill village overlooked by the wind turbines. One of the historical figures of the village is Signora Lucia, who after having sold drinks door- to-door for decades, she turned to catering, and today manages with her family the restaurant-pizzeria Twins, enthusiastically frequented by all the valley. Exuberant, friendly, a chatterbox, if you drop by to find her, other than having cooked cavatelli for you, her way, with a sausage sauce, she will certainly regale you with some unusual and entertaining stories about the young Padre Pio, who for a period attended the Capuchin Monastery in the village. The traces of the saint of Pietrelcina appear to be found in almost more places than those purported to bars Hemingway frequented.